Al-pine start – (adj., noun) – When climbers begin a mountain ascent in the early morning, prior to the first blush of dawn, in order to increase climbing time preceding the effect solar radiation has on snow and ice which may lead to ice or rock fall and potentially avalanches.
The alpine start is something that many of us have become familiar with over our climbing and skiing careers. Our relationship with it could be characterized easily by love or hate. It holds the keys to success with many mountain objectives but not without providing a touch of insanity to those who choose it’s path. Sleeping perhaps only two hours in a night and then rustling out of bed to drive to the trailhead may seem as if you had never awoken from your slumber. You shoulder an unpleasantly heavy pack, spark up your headlamp and take off from the perceived comfort of humanity. Trudging in silence or perhaps cracking a few, “this is crazy” jokes, you find the mileage slipping by quicker than ever before. After a few encounters with the elusive “shadow moose” or “dead-tree-stump bear” your adrenaline pumps and drives you more quickly up the mountain side. Finally a junction is met, where mode of travel or direction must change, and we as mountaineers must transition from our drowsy state to one of heightened awareness.
I was skinning under the full moon through the open lower fork of Garnet Canyon when I began to find my heightened conscious state. We had navigated the switchbacks to Garnet Canyon from Lupine Meadows in the Grand Teton National Park and were now quickly working our way towards the open meadows between the peaks of Nez Perce, South Teton, Middle Teton and of course the Grand Teton. Having already covered roughly 3.8 miles and gained 2700 vertical feet, we gazed in amazement at the enormousness of our objective as the morning sun began to light the high peaks.
Alpenglow on Nez Perce from above Spaulding Falls in Garnet Canyon. (photo) Taylor Luneau.
The Ford-Stettner route is a classic North American ski descent, which drops precipitously from the 13,770’ summit block of the Grand Teton. Reached by climbing the Teepee glacier, one of the few remaining glaciers in the Tetons, the Stettner Couloir is a mix of névé snow and ice, which leads to the Chevy Couloir, exiting climber’s left. The Chevy possesses more ice to navigate at a moderate alpine WI2+ grade. Once you’ve pulled through the tougher ice climbing section you will find yourself at the base of the Ford Couloir. Pushing 1100 vertical feet to the East Face and summit block of the Grand Teton, the Ford Couloir tips the inclinometer back to 50° at it’s steeper sections and remains a fairly consistent 40-45° decent all the way back to the Chevy Couloir. All told one can expect to hike, skin and climb roughly 6 miles and gain over 7,000 vertical feet.
Climbing the Chevy Couloir in perfect névé snow conditions. (Photo) Nate Kenney.
After climbing the Teepee Glacier and crossing to Glencoe Col we found the Stettner Couloir to be filled in quite nicely with snow. The sun was warming things up but thankfully local forecaster Jim Woodmacey had correctly predicted the overcast and slight snow showers that would keep our snowpack firm and lower our concerns of wet slab avalanches. We quickly soloed the Stettner and Chevy Couloir and stopped for a quick snack before making the summit push up the Ford Couloir.
Standing at the Junction of the Chevy and Ford Couloir with the top of the Petzoldt Ridge in the background. (Photo) Nate Kenney
Looking back down the Ford Couloir nearing the East Face of the Grand Teton. (Photo) Nate Kenney
When climbing snow this steep kicking steps can require a lot of energy expenditure but our timing was perfect and the snow was just firm enough to make the climbing quick and enjoyable. At times of high exposure like these, one must have absolute paramount mental and physical stamina so as to not be distracted by such limitations. You’re attention must be given fully to the mountain and be ready to receive any signs that it provides you. If distracted due to fatigue, it is easy to miss red flags in the already hazardous environment around you and drive your team blindly in to life threatening terrain.
Nate letting all his excitement pour out after successfully reaching the summit block of the Grand Teton. (photo) Taylor Luneau
Standing a top the Grand Teton is an honor for any Mountaineer and when it is willing to allow your passage you must be ready physically and mentally to take it’s offer. We summited, high-fived and slapped our skies down onto the summit marker to clip in.
The Weapon of Choice, nothing but the best. (Photo) Taylor Luneau
At the Summit of the Grand Teton as the clouds begin to clear and show the massiveness of the Teton Range. (Photo) Nate Kenney
Standing a top of the Grand Teton with your skis on your back is a surreal experience. The scale of the mountain is humbling but all that anxiety is pushed out of our minds as we ski off the summit block and down into the Ford Couloir. We are met with creamy turns as the late morning sun has started to warm the snow. The skiing was extremely exposed and some of the steepest turns we had made in the backcountry.
Riding into the choke point of the Ford Couloir while enjoying the steepest and most exhilarating corn turns of our lives. (Photo) Nate Kenney
Once we had reached the top of the Chevy Couloir we pulled out our rope and began the tedious process of rappelling back down to the Stettner couloir where we could continue to ski back over to the Teepee glacier. Four rappels on a 70 meter rope were used to reach the mid point of the Stettner and we were able to enjoy a few turns through the exit.
Rappelling the Stettner Couloir. (Photo) Taylor Luneau
Once we had exited the Stettner we shouted in celebration and smiled uncontrollably at having skied one of the most memorable lines of our lives. Hailing from Vermont’s rolling hills, skiing such an iconic line as the Ford-Stettner had been a mere dream for most of our young ski mountaineering careers. The turning point for me however, was when I began to take my physical and mental preparation more seriously. I found mentors and attended avalanche education courses. I asked the right questions about the snow pack in the Tetons and was patient in waiting for the proper conditions window.
But of course none of this would have been possible without a serious commitment to my physical fitness. The training that I have received at Mountain Athlete has built me into a stronger, more confident and outgoing rider. I know that I can rely on my physical stamina in times when a fast push to the summit is mandatory or while tired and riding through a no fall zone.
The coaches at Mountain Athlete have pushed me to perform my best and strive to pass my physical comfort zone in the gym. It is only in doing so that I am prepared to take on the challenge of climbing and skiing in the high peaks. Like any other athlete the work you do in your off-season is directly linked to your level of success once its game time. It is my firm belief that people can obtain those seemingly far off goals with the proper education and training and I’m proud to join the likes of Kit DesLauriers, another Mountain Athlete and the first female to solo and ski the Grand, and follow the tracks of Bill Briggs who skied the first decent of the Grand Teton on June 16th, 1971.
The skiers at Mountain Athlete have already begun their off-season training and I highly suggest investing in their Ski Mountaineering or Free ski program to train this summer and set yourself up for success once the snow begins to fly again. That dream line may become a reality with enough work and perhaps an alpine start.
Firing celebration turns below the Teepee Glacier nearing the meadows in Garnet Canyon (Photo) Taylor Luneau